Best Climbing Belay Device of 2024

Reasons to Buy

• The braking system is excellent
• Suitable for a wide variety of rope diameters
• Beginner friendly
• It's the default belay device for single pitch climbing

Reasons to Avoid

• Bit of a learning curve for feeding rope
• Not ideal for multi-pitch climbing

The Single Pitch Default

The Petzl GriGri has been firmly established as the default belay device for single pitch climbing. Visit any sport climbing crag and you will mostly just see GriGris. It's so popular because it has a braking system that is hard to screw up and is very beginner friendly. It takes safety seriously and does everything else well too.

Performance and Skill

Feeding slack with the GriGri is a skill that you have to learn. Climbers new to the GriGri will probably start out short-roping their partners as they learn the subtelties of feeding out rope without engaging the braking system. But once you learn it, you'll be able to whip out a bunch of rope in no time for that crucial clip. We have noticed, however, that older, dirty ropes are more likely to catch in the GriGri braking system, even when you're doing everything right.. Therefore, regular rope maintenance is recommended, and newer ropes tend to perform better with the GriGri.

Versatility

In terms of versatility, the GriGri shows some limitations. It's not particularly well-suited for multi-pitch climbing, especially when belaying from above, and the bulkier and heavier design compared to other belay devices means it's not a great choice when weight matters. On the plus side, the GriGri can accommodate a wider range of rope diameters than most other devices, which is a definite plus on the versatility score.

Overall

Overall, the Petzl GriGri remains the preferred choice for a significant portion of the climbing community. Its strength in single pitch climbs, coupled with its reliable braking system and ability to handle a huge range of rope sizes make it the default belay device for just about every climber. It does have a few quirks, particularly around feeding slack, but it is the default belay device for a reason, and we don't think that's changing any time soon.

Reasons to Buy

• Great versatility
• Lightweight
• Very good value

Reasons to Avoid

• No breaking failsafe

The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a favorite among climbers for its versatility, durability and robust build. As a belay device, it excels in both indoor and outdoor climbing scenarios offering a secure, smooth belaying experience.

The ATC-Guide is forged out of durable aluminum. This makes it lightweight, but don't be fooled by its lack of heft. This device is seriously tough. Many users have reported that, even after plenty of use, it shows minimal signs of wear.

What stands out most about the ATC-Guide is its flexibility. It can be used in 'guide mode' for top belaying or, for lead belaying, it can be used as a traditional tubular device. This means that climbers of different skills and preferences can equally enjoy and benefit from this device.

One feature users love is the friction notches. They are located at the bottom of the device and give additional braking power. This makes it easier to handle a heavier climber. Moreover, the brake-hand force in both modes is commendably low which has been appreciated by a majority of users.

Despite its many benefits, some users have more mixed reviews on the guide mode. While it is certainly an excellent feature in theory, in practice it can be tricky to lower a climber smoothly. Some climbers also mention it can be tough to unlock it from guide mode, especially for novices.

Additionally, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide may not be the most beginner-friendly. Its versatility might be overwhelming for someone new to climbing as it comes with a slightly steeper learning curve.

Overall, most climbers agree the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a reliable workhorse. Its solid performance, adaptability, and durability make it a tool suited for almost every climbing situation.

Reasons to Buy

• Improves on safety of regular GriGri with anti-panic handle
• Ideal for climbing gyms and beginners

Reasons to Avoid

• A bit on the pricey side
• Braking system might be over-zealous for experienced climbers

Petzl Grigri+ has managed to carve out a significant niche for itself in the competitive world of climbing belay devices. It's lauded by climbers of all skill levels for its user-friendly design and superior safety features.

The Grigri+ boasts of its anti-panic handle, a nifty addition that automatically engages the brake if the handle is pulled too hard. This unique feature has been a life-saver in dicey climbing scenarios, catching many a free-falling climber midway due to a slip of the hand or excessive force.

Many reviews also highlight the device's switchable modes for top-rope and lead belaying. This level of adaptability is a standout feature that has been praised by climbers, especially those ascending or descending varying terrains. Moreover, the stainless steel wear plate significantly enhances the device’s durability, promising longevity, and consistency in its performance.

Ease of feeding rope and smooth lowering functionalities are other major highlights that users can't seem to get enough of. The Grigri+'s fluid and snag-free rope handling has been likened to a 'smooth dance', ensuring climbers an unencumbered climbing experience.

However, the Grigri+ is not without its drawbacks. Some climbers have mentioned that it's a tad heavier and bulkier compared to other devices in the same category. This can be a bit of a put-off for those into lightweight climbing gear. The device also commands a premium price which, though justified by its robust features and quality, might not appeal to budget-conscious climbers.

Some users have also expressed concerns about it being a bit complex to use, especially for beginners. They suggest that there's a steep learning curve involved before one can comfortably and safely utilize all its features.

In the grand scheme of things, the Petzl Grigri+ is a top-tier climbing belay device that offers top-notch safety, versatility, and durability. Although it comes with a few hiccups, those who've mastered it swear by its efficiency and wouldn't trade it for a simpler, lighter model.

Reasons to Buy

• Affordable price point
• Reliable auto-locking feature
• Solid construction
• Can control descent speed
• Suitable for both beginners and experienced climbers

Reasons to Avoid

• Might feel bit heavier as compared to other devices
• Bit of a learning curve due to unique design
• Handles thicker ropes disdainfully

The Edelrid Mega Jul stands out in the budget climbing belay devices market, offering essential features without breaking the bank. Designed for experienced climbers who value efficiency and flexibility in their gear, this multipurpose device doesn't compromise on safety and control.

Some online reviewers dubbed the Mega Jul as the 'Swiss army knife of belay devices'. Indeed, it's built to serve multiple climbing functions, from belaying and rappelling to guide mode, and it's compatible with a wide range of rope sizes.

Made from ultra-lightweight stainless steel, the Mega Jul strikes a balance between robustness and minimal weight. Therefore it is perfect for climbers looking to reduce their load without relinquishing durability and strength. Online reviewers have praised the longevity of the product, noting that it shows less wear and tear compared to aluminum devices, even after long-term use.

A significant number of reviewers have commended its assisted braking feature. This functionality helps catch a fall by creating friction on the rope, giving climbers an added sense of security. However, some climbers found the assisted braking requires a bit of a learning curve to master.

The Mega Jul's guide mode is another feature users online appreciate. This particularly comes in handy when bringing up two second climbers simultaneously. However, some have mentioned that switching between the guide mode and the belaying mode can be slightly tricky for less experienced users.

In terms of potential downsides, several online buyers have pointed out that the Mega Jul may not feed as smoothly as other devices when used for top-rope belaying or rapid rappelling. Some mention that the device tends to 'grip' the rope, requiring a firm hand to give it out.

It's worth noting that feedback regarding the compact nature of the Mega Jul is mixed. Some climbers praised its small size due to the reduced weight and space in their packs. On the other hand, individuals with larger hands or those wearing gloves found it slightly cumbersome.

Overall, the Edelrid Mega Jul receives high marks from buyers for its durability, versatility, and affordability. Despite a few complaints about rope handling and size, this device has found a loyal following amongst climbers who value multifunctional equipment and safety features integrated into their gear.

Reasons to Buy

• Versatile dual-mode design
• High-end build quality
• Great for all types of climbing
• Covered in strong and durable material

Reasons to Avoid

• A bit pricey compared to similar devices
• Slightly complicated for beginners
• Initial set-up can be time-consuming

Many users have described the Edelrid Giga Jul as a heavyweight champion in the climbing belay device market. They rave about its dual nature, offering both manual assisted locking and traditional tube style belaying in one piece of gear. The fact that you can easily switch between modes to cater for any climbing scenario has been praised for its convenience and flexibility.

Durability earned impressive marks from climbers. Constructed with hard-wearing stainless steel and lightweight aluminium, the Edelrid Giga Jul showed resistance in high wear areas, living up to the expectation of long-term service. Few belay devices can match up on this point.

Opinions, however, seemed divided on the weight of the device. Some climbers appreciated the solid feel and didn't mind the slight increase in pack weight, considering the benefits it offers. Others found it a tad on the heavy side, especially those ultralight fans who count every gram in their backpack.

The handling also received positive feedback. Users commended the smooth feeding and taking rope. Whether belaying a lead climber or bringing up two seconds on a multi-pitch route, its performance was deemed excellent.

Several reviews mentioned the Giga Jul's learning curve. While it was touted as a pretty straightforward device, some newbies found mastering it not as intuitive as they'd like. It takes time and practice, especially when switching between modes, but veteran climbers advise that consistency will make the process second nature soon enough.

An issue that cropped in several reviews was that of rope compatibility. While the manufacturer claims it's compatible with a wide array of rope diameters, a few climbers pointed out that feeding and pulling thicker ropes were a bit tough. Hence, ideally suited for slightly thinner ropes.

In terms of safety, the Edelrid Giga Jul's assisted braking function received applause. Its ability to arrest falls efficiently and its strong holding power were cited as major reasons behind climbers feeling secure and confident using this device.

Finally, the versatility of the Giga Jul was cited as a major selling point. Reviewers highlighted that once you master this 'do it all' device, it reduces the need for carrying multiple belay devices for different climbing situations.