Best Climbing Quickdraw of 2024

Reasons to Buy

• Outstanding clipping and unclipping
• Keylock carabiner eliminates snagging
• On the lighter side
• Great for sport climbing

Reasons to Avoid

• Not light enough for alpine or trad

Weight

The Petzl Spirit Express quickdraw earns its top spot for a number of reasons. First and foremost, it's exceptionally lightweight, a key feature that makes it stand out. The latest version, released in 2023, has managed to trim down its weight to just under 90 grams for the 11cm dogbone variant. While it's not the absolute lightest on the market, it's certainly among the top contenders. This aspect is especially appealing for climbers who prioritize minimal weight in their gear, although those tackling longer alpine routes might find it slightly hefty. However, for most climbing scenarios, especially single pitch sport climbing, its weight hits a sweet spot.

Clipping

Another highlight of the Petzl Spirit Express is its performance in clipping and unclipping, both of which are very smooth. Clipping, in particular, feels effortless and snappy. When you're in a delicate spot and need to clip quickly, this is a great quickdraw to have. The dogbone design also deserves special mention. Its shape and substantial feel make grabbing and holding onto it much more comfortable and secure compared to other quickdraws we tested.

Value

Finally, when it comes to the price, the Petzl Spirit Express finds a middle ground. Considering its superior performance in weight, ease of use, and the ergonomic design of the dogbone, we think of it as a value buy. You're getting a great quickdraw for a reasonable price. This balance of price and quality makes the Petzl Spirit Express a smart choice for climbers looking for reliability and performance without breaking the bank.

Reasons to Buy

• Ergonomic dogbone for gripping
• Fantastic clipping action

Reasons to Avoid

• On the heavier side
• Pricey compared to other quickdraws

Clipping

The highlight of the DMM Alpha Sport quickdraw is the great clipping action. The carabiner has a distinct notch that you can catch the rope against, which we found made for a quick and reliable clip. We also really like the unclipping. The carabiners clearly had a lot of thought put in to them, and we really enjoyed using them during testing.

The Dogbone

The dogbone is also one of the best we tested. It's well designed for easy grabbing and holding, which is often critical when pushing your climbing limits. The dogbone design is one area where we think a lot of quickdraws don't do well, so quickdraws that get it right do stand out.

Weight and Cost

However, the quickdraw does have its drawbacks. Weight is the big one, as it ranks among the heaviest that we tested. While this might not be an issue with a single quickdraw, you might start to notice it when you have a dozen of them clipped to your harness. The DMM Alpha Sport quickdraw is also one of the more expensive quickdraws we tested. But, we think the quality is worth the cost. These are high quality quickdraws that are worth the price.

Reasons to Buy

• We like the hybrid gate design
• Good price for the quality

Reasons to Avoid

• Dogbone is a bit thin for grabbing
• Bottom gate can be a little stiff for clipping

Clipping

The Black Diamond HotForge Hybrid quickdraw has a solid clipping action. The wire gate has a nice lip to catch the rope during clipping, which we liked. But the wire gate also feels a bit stiffer compared to the bottom carabiner on most quickdraws, which might not appeal to everyone.

Unclipping

For unclipping, the top carabiner performs just as well as any other keylock carabiner on a quickdraw. But the bottom wiregate carabiner has a noticeable notch in the nose, which you might find yourself catching the rope on while unclipping. And with respect to weight, the Black Diamond HotForge Hybrid quickdraw is middle of the road.

The Dogbone

The dogbone of the quickdraw is a little underwhelming. It doesn't have the substantial feel that would make it ideal for grabbing. It's also quite stiff. We didn't really notice the stiffness impacting performance one way or another, but it's an interesting design difference.

Overall

On the brighter side, the cost of the HotForge Hybrid is a definite highlight. As one of the more affordable options on the market, it offers solid value for its price. We don't feel that any of the drawbacks listed above are deal-breakers, which makes the Black Diamond HotForge Hybrid a cost-effective choice for climbers seeking quality without a hefty price tag.

Reasons to Buy

• Exceptional design and functionality.
• Sturdy and dependable even in tough situations.
• Great value for the price.
• Lightweight and easy for carrying.
• Smooth clipping action.

Reasons to Avoid

• Durability may be an issue over time.
• Not as robust as some other brands.
• Slightly tricky to handle if you're a novice climber.
• Could exhibit signs of wear after heavy use.

The Petzl Ange Finesse quickdraw is a simple and lightweight solution for climbers on a budget. Its savvy design, with a single-wire gate, and streamlined look make it a top pick especially for trad climbers or alpinists who are trying to shave every gram off their rack.

Let's start with the Ange Finesse's best feature - its weight. It tips the scales at just 63g for the 17cm version. It's incredibly light, yet still able to provide sturdy support for climbers.

The build quality of the Ange Finesse is notable. It offers excellent durability and reliability for a budget-friendly quickdraw. Owning to its small and minimalistic design, it contributes to a lighter rack - however this maybe a bit more challenging for those with larger hands when clip and unclip maneuvers are required.

In terms of handling, the Ange Finesse is capable but doesn't really stand out. If you're used to traditional gate quickdraws, there may be a noticeable adjustment period as the single wire gate feels different under the fingertips. With heavy gloves on in cold conditions, this could affect handling.

From a performance standpoint, one area where it lags behind is on rope drag. Due to its minimalistic design and shorter length, it’s not the best at reducing rope drag especially on meandering routes.

Consumer reviews pointed out few areas of concern. Firstly, due to its slim size and design, it can be rather difficult to grab in case you need to pull on your quickdraw. Secondly, the wire gate design is less robust than its solid counterparts, and may wear out the rope more aggressively if frequently used as a top-rope anchor.

That said, the majority of the climbers appreciate the balance that Ange Finesse offers between weight, functionality, and cost. They loved its lightweight aspect which makes a world of difference on long climbing trips and praised its budget pricing as an affordable entry into high-end climbing gear.

Overall, the Petzl Ange Finesse is a strong contender in the line of budget climbing quickdraws, designed for climbers who prioritize weight and savings above all else.

Reasons to Buy

• Compact and ultralight
• Durable despite light weight
• Cost-effective choice
• Carabiners are easy to clip
• Ideal for long multi-pitch climbing routes
• Rated strength is high

Reasons to Avoid

• May be too small for bigger hands
• Not the best for winter climbing
• Some find gate tension a bit hard

The DMM Phantom Quickdraw, a gem in the Ultralight niche, is highly favored among the climbing community for its incredibly lightweight but strong features. Weighing just 26 grams, it's an obvious choice for climbers who don't want to lug around any unnecessary weight.

The minimalist design of the DMM Phantom Quickdraw may surprise some as it doesn't virtually impact its efficiency or durability. The lightweight feature has been achieved by reducing unnecessary material while maximizing strength. This has been ensured through the use of lightweight but strong materials, as well as intelligent design that doesn't compromise on robustness.

One of the standout features noted by customers is its 'clean nose' design. The keylock on the DMM Phantom mitigates the risk of snagging, making both clipping and unclipping a walk in the park. Users have noted the ease and smoothness of clipping these onto bolts, which can drastically reduce the time spent fumbling around during ascents.

Durability wise, despite initial concerns due to its feather-light nature, climbers have expressed satisfaction in how well these quickdraws last over time. Customers find the DMM Phantom to be quite sturdy, shrugging off rough use and providing solid performance climb after climb.

However, it's worth noting that some climbers found the DMM Phantom's size a bit too compact, making it slightly fiddly, especially with gloved hands. Another point of concern was the price. Its top-of-the-line features come with a comparably high price tag. While most agree that the quality justifies the cost, budget-conscious climbers, on the other hand, found it a bit of a stretch, declaring it more suitable for serious climbers rather than novices.

In all, buyers have found the DMM Phantom Quickdraw's lightweight design, strength, and usability to stand out, making it a favorite. While its compact size and price tag may not suit everyone, its sturdy build and easy clipping mechanism have found significant praise in climbers who've used the product.

Reasons to Buy

• Constructed with durable materials
• Well-designed for easy and smooth clipping
• Top-notch carabiner gate action
• Superb handling

Reasons to Avoid

• Slightly expensive
• A bit larger than other quickdraws in the same category

If you're out to conquer the rugged mountains or scale cliff faces, the Trango Phase Alpine Quickdraw is certainly a winner in the climbing gear world. It’s designed with the ambitious alpinist in mind and has all of the hallmarks of a reliable piece of climbing tech.

The Phase Alpine weighs in at just 2.3 ounces, which helps minimize the load on your harness during those long climbs. This lightweight design doesn't compromise on strength, with each quickdraw rated for 22kN along the major axis, providing solid reliability under normal climbing conditions.

What has caught the attention of climbers is the size of the carabiners themselves. Though they’re a tiny bit smaller than some other models, users report that they’re still easy to clip, even for climbers with larger hands. The sleek, key-lock nose design on each carabiner lends a smooth clipping and cleaning experience, minimizing snagging when you're in a pinch.

Speaking about durability, users say that even after deep winter climbing and taking a bit of a beating, the Trango Phase Alpine stands up strong. It is finished with a polyester dog bone which is durable and importantly, easy to handle in cold temperatures. Though it's not the beefiest dog bone out there, users never reported it impacting their overall climb. The vibrant color-coding on the carabiners is a small but impactful feature, allowing climbers to quickly identify the rope end versus the bolt end.

While generally loved all-around, there are a few minor gripes that some users reported. A few climbers noted that the gate tension was on the stiffer side, which might cause issues for some when they're trying to make quick clips. Others took issue with the small carabiner size when it came to wearing gloves, finding it a bit fiddly.

On the whole, the Trango Phase Alpine Quickdraw has garnered positive comments from climbing enthusiasts, praising its lightweight design and solid strength ratings. Its rock-solid performance in real-world climbing environments has won over users who demand reliability, convenience, and durability in one neat package.